Where the Talamancan mountains reach the sea, the town of Dominical is located 45 kms. south of Quepos, and 36 kms. west of San Isidro de General. There are over 15 waterfalls located between Dominical and Uvita (15kms. south) with breathtaking views of the numerous emptypoint and beach breaks along the coastal highway. The main break is a beachbreak with a strong rip current at times and a rivermouth separating the village from the Hacienda Baru Wildlife Refuge which expands 4 kilometers to the north.
If you need to find an internet cafe, there are three in town, but for an ATM machine - the closest is in San Isidro, a 45 min. scenic ride inland.
Inside Scoop
Although high season is December 15 to April 15, Dominical is never overcrowded except from Christmas to New Years and Easter Week. Then hundreds of locals come to visit, party, and camp on the mile long beach. All of the hotels will help you with arranging tours. They all have someone working who speak English (possibly French and German, too) Your car is pretty safe if you park it in front of the hotel, but take your stuff inside and keep the room locked when not there. Don't forget the mosquito repellent and the umbrella since you are in the rainforest.
The Wave
Playa Dominical is known as the most consistent surf spot in Costa Rica. There is almost always a wave worth riding. It is also known as a powerful break. I've been on much bigger waves at other breaks, but I've never been hammered quite as hard as by a big, mid-tide wave at Dominical. It is almost impossible to surf at dead low tide as the waves close out into very shallow water. I recently broke my back at a lower tide by doing a head butt into the sand. The mid-tides are great for more advanced surfers. The waves at mid-tide are faster and hollower and always less crowded. The high tide wave is the most popular but on smaller days is too mushy and frustrates short boarders. This is a good condition to pull out the long board and frustrate the short boarders even more. The bigger the wave, the more you should focus on high tide. On big wave days the current can be strong. It is usually best to walk to the end of the beach at the foot of the current and let it push you up or down as the case may be. The beach runs from the south east to the north west. Looking straight out to sea perpendicular to the beach you are looking at an angle of 210 degrees south west. This means that a swell coming from 210 degrees is most likely going to be closing out, where a swell coming from under 200 degrees or over 220 (rare) will have better form. Usually, but not always, when the waves come from less than 210 degrees the current flows south to north. When it rains, the river can act up and dump some pretty nasty, cold and muddy water. So, if it is raining, most people tend to stick further south near the cell tower.
5/2 - Saturday morning gives us smaller waves than yesterday and the days before and another grey sky. there were some very fun morning and afternoon sessions this past week at playa Dominical and it's still fun just smaller and the crowds are still fairly light. Plenty of fun, small, empty waves all the way to Roca Verde this morning.
Too small for the point by now but Hermosa south should be mellow and uncrowded
The first ever Ballena South Coast Art & Craft festival is savoring its final weekend and last few days which has been a mixed bag for residents of Dominical. Extra business for lodging but our resturants and discos are going empty thanks to the flood of out of town food vendors and the beach disco scene. Festival businesses say it's been a slow festival overall. We did get some road improvement work out of the deal anyway, short lived as it may be.
How to get there
There are two direct routes. From the San Jose airport - I recommend driving west to the coast and then south through Jaco and Quepos. This route takes about four hours by car. The last hour is over a BUMPY non-paved road that gets better each week, until flooding takes out a section of it. The other way to go is preferred if you coming from the east or south side of San Jose. Then you would take the three hour "Cerro del Muerte" or Interamerican Highway route over to San Isidro, make a right at the McDonalds, and then follow the signs west to Dominical, which is another hour from the turn.
Another great option is to use EasyRideCR.com, $40 pp one way from SJO to Dominical
Bus Schedules
Transporte Blanco - 2771.4744
Uvita
Dominical
San Isidro
6:00 a.m.
2:00 p.m.
6:30 a.m.
2:30 p.m.
8:00 a.m.
4 p.m.
San Isidro
Dominical
Uvita
9:00 a.m.
4:00 p.m.
10:30 a.m
5:30 p.m.
11:00 a.m.
6:00 p.m.
Cortes
Uvita
Dominical
8:00 a.m.
1:00 p.m.
4:30 p.m.
9:30 a.m.
2:30 p.m.
6:00 p.m.
10:00 a.m.
3:00 p.m.
6:30 p.m.
Dominical
Uvita
Cortes
4:30 a.m.
10:30 a.m.
5:00 a.m.
11:00 a.m.
6:30 a.m.
12:30 p.m.
Transportante Morales - 2777.0708
Quepos
Dominical
Uvita
6:30 a.m.
5:30 p.m.
8:30 a.m.
7:30 p.m.
9:00 a.m.
10:00 p.m.
Uvita
Dominical
Quepos
4:30 a.m.
11:00 a.m.
1:00 p.m.
5:00 p.m.
5:00 a.m.
11:30 a.m.
1:30 p.m.
5:30 p.m.
7:00 a.m.
1:30 p.m.
3:00 p.m.
7:30 p.m.
Taxi Drivers
Dominical
Uvita
Beto
8873-9235
Alvaro
8823-7433
Eladio
8892-8602
Emilio (mini bus)
8858-5744
Eric
8863-1901
Geovanny (mini bus)
8858-5744
Gulligan (4x4)
8847-0231
Hermes
8855-3830
Manuel
8817-2128
Marco (Perica)
8879-2756
Nelson(4x4)
8347-2020
Mario
8839-8484
Ricardo
8880-7220
Rodolfo
8340-6697
After a long trip, I've found the BEST massage therapist - Fabiola Gomez
Call for her at Villas Rio Mar (2787-0052) or she will come to your room - 8829-6125
Hacienda Baru - E-mail
Phone: 2787-0003
Known for its zipline tour through tracts of primary and secondary rainforest, the protected reserve is home to sloths, pizotes, and monkeys. Also has some great hiking trails and tree climbing, and night in the jungle tours.
Southern Expeditions
Phone: 2787-0100 - E-mail
The choice for sea kayaking, white water rafting, snorkeling Cano Island, and trips to the Osa Peninsula. Excellent customer service and lots of guide experience.
Cataratas Nuayaca
Phone: 2771-3187 (Video Below)
Horseback tours up to a 300 foot waterfall to swim in and dive off of. Includes a delicious local breakfast and lunch.
Jungle ATV - E-mail
Easy paced tours up through the jungle to oceanview vistas OR hard core adventures with river crossings, horse trail switchbacks, waterfalls, and even more amazing views.
Pina Kayak Tours - check out the video
Local guides take you on scenic kayak tours on the Guapil, Baru, and Terraba rivers.
Recommended Restaurants
Villas Rio Mar Restaurant - 3-star restaurant with international and local chefs. 52" screen T.V. for football season, and a pool bar for those who want to be outdoors.
Restaurante Argentina - Original cuisine from the chefs native Argentina, with a great view overlooking the Baru River, in the Pueblo shopping strip.
San Clemente Bar & Grill (and the Sandwich Shack) - The buses drop you off right in front. Broken boards line the ceiling and the discos are the place to come dance on Fridays. Good mexican food and great waitresses. Pool, foosball, surf videos, and CNN with endless coffee in the morning. The "snack shack" is part of the cabinas on the beach and has frozen shakes and pitas.
Restaurante Su Raza (Tico) - Good food all around and the best club sandwich you'll ever have. It is where you will see everyone watching Futbol on the weekends.
Restaurante Nanyoa (Tico) - The owner takes great pride in providing good meals with a local flair. Located right across the street from Hotel Posada del Sol, inexpensive breakfasts and casados.
Thruster's Surf Bar and Restaurant - Pool tables, foosball, and surf flicks. Good pizza y big casados. A locals hangout. There's even a sushi bar right next door.
Tortilla Flats Restaurant - A nice setting right across from the ocean, or sit out on the beach and be served
Roca Verde Bar & Restaurant - A great Disco every Saturday night, Mariachi Band Sunday with a BBQ lunch