On days when the conditions aren’t ideal, surf books are a great way to get your fill of glassy tubes and tropical breaks. In the past decade, many professional surfers, surf historians, and surf journalists have written surf books unveiling secret waves around the world, the best surf destinations, reviews of coastal regions, and legendary stories of surfing heroes. Picking up a surf book is a great way to learn more about the sport and lifestyle of surfing, and will teach you lessons that apply both in and out of the ocean. I’ve chosen a few of my favorite high-quality surfing books that will open up the world of surf literature.
Surf Is Where You Find It by Gerry Lopez
Gerry Lopez is a world-class surfer, known for mastering the Hawaiian break Pipeline, and is also an advocate for surf-initiatives through Patagonia. In Surf is Where You Find It, Lopez tells 38 stories about what a lifetime in the ocean has taught him. With decades of experience, Lopez brings insightful words of wisdom to this work, bringing practical life lessons for both in the ocean and out.
For the Love by Kelly Slater
This novel is a must for any surfer, kooks, novices, and pros alike. Written in 2008 by 9-time world champion at the time of publishing, For the Love covers Kelly Slater’s experience and thoughts as the greatest competitive surfer of all time. Interestingly, this book was written only a few years after Slater’s first novel Pipe Dreams, and gives a unique perspective to his growth as a person and surfer between the two novels.
The Code by Shaun Tomson
Tomson lays out straightforward lessons and rules to the sport of surfing, then delves into his personal experience that has led to this lesson or rule. “Sometimes this is a memory of a wave, a surf trip, contest, or a tremendous wipe out. Tomson shares his experiences of surfing breaks across the globe, and personal experiences with tragedy that have led him to a place of openness and care for his community,” says Amanda Richards, sports writer at Coursework Writing Service and Dissertation Writing Service.
The History of Surfing by Matt Warshaw
This book is particularly important for all beginning surfers to read, to give insight and context to what the surfing community is built from today. Warshaw starts from the very first ‘sighting’ of surf back in 1778 by James Cook, and brings you through the timeline of surf up through the 21st century, from Koa wood boards in Hawai’i to short boards on the California coast.
The Wave: In Pursuit of the Rogues, Freaks and Giants of the Ocean by Susan Casey
Written by talented writer Susan Casey, this novel seamlessly brings together science, rogue waves, and the legend Laird Hamilton in an exciting tale. Casey immerses the reader in the life of Laird Hamilton, and in the minds of the world’s leading scientists in order to paint a picture of the ocean and its raw power.
Surfer Magazine: 50 Years by Surfer Magazine
Every serious surfer has a few copies of Surfer Magazine tucked into their glove compartment or on the kitchen counter. “This book is a collection of the very best articles and images from the last five decades of Surfer Magazine. Included in this book are interviews of the most legendary surf personalities, iconic stories, unique breaks, and surfboard design,” explains Fiona Adams, a blogger at Essayroo and Write My Paper.
Caught Inside by Daniel Duane
Surfers have been notoriously deterred from the standard 9-to-5 work schedule. For Daniel Duane, the thought of suffering through another year at his desk job was too much to stomach – so he quit his job in pursuit of the best waves the California coastline has to offer. In this book, Duane gives brilliant insight into his quest for the perfect wave, befriending locals, and his experience of exploring the California coast, peppered with philosophical insights.
Whether you are a seasoned surfer or simply enjoy the beauty of waves rolling to shore, surf books are a great way to learn more about the power of the ocean and the lifestyle that surrounds it. From legendary surfers to professional writers and journalists, this list provides a selection of books that will immerse you in surf culture in new ways.
Beatrix Potter is a professional journalist and writer at Do My Paper and College Paper writing services. Beatrix loves beach volleyball, surfing, and acro-yoga in her free time, and teaches children’s yoga classes on weekends. She is also a tutor at MBA Essay Help website.