Mal Pais is actually three small towns stretched along the southern tip of the Nicoya Peninsula. From north to south they are called Santa Teresa, Playa Carmen, and Mal Pais. The road is not paved for the last 10 kilometers, but at least the dirt is scraped smooth at the beginning of each dry season. The light brown beaches with green hills behind them bring tourists that prefer nature over nightlife. There are a few late night fiestas and it is growing at a suprising pace, so hopefully the iguanas and monkeys won't be moving out anytime soon. For more info on Mal Pais, check out : www.malpais.net and www.malpaisbeach.com.
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In Mal Pais, the beach break has a lot of rocks sticking out, especially at low tide, which makes it a little sketchy on some of the drops, but also a hollower wave. There are also a couple of left points at the south end of town. Playa Carmen is a long and wide stretch of open beach where most of the surfers go since it breaks a little bigger there than other spots. There is a powerful shorebreak and when the swell is big can break very far on the outside. It can handle well over double overhead surf, but will mostly closeout on the sets. Farther north in Santa Teresa and some smaller beaches has a series of rocky reefs that break left and break. The reefs need waves overhead or better to work.
Playa Carmen is at the center of Mal Pais, a block to the beach from Franks Place and a few new hotels. If you go straight out the bottom is sand, but at lower tides there are a few boils and rock outcroppings to the north and south so be careful. The wave is best from head high to three feet overhead. It does not usually barrel on the outside sets, just provides a big slopey wall for huge carves. It can break way on the outside so watch for sneaker sets. Best tide is mid going to high tide. Crowds are the worst right in front, but the drift will spread out the pack and you can get fun waves on the inside sections, too.
About a kilometer north of Playa Carmen is Santa Teresa, a stretch of beach mixed with sand and lava rock outcroppings that extend out 100 meters or more into the ocean. So at the right tide these ledges make for some heavy barreling rights and lefts. There is even a peak called Suck Rock because that is what it does. Ask the locals which tide works best or just sit on it and watch from a hammock at one of the many beachside villas. Crowds are light, but the locals will hit it if there is enough swell to make these peaks work. Best size is overhead to two feet overhead.
At the south end of Mal Pais there are a couple of left hand point breaks that only work when it is overhead or bigger. Midtide is the best time to check it. You will have to park on the road and walk to find the break. Just drive slowly and keep one eye peeled for a set. If it is big, the wave can break for 200 meters.
8/29 - This morning at 7:30 am waves were shoulder high with few head high sets. Light on shore wind and partially clear skies. Just a few in the line up...
To drive there over land it would take a good 7 to 8 hours, not all of it on a paved road. To shorten the trip to five hours, you can take the ferry from Puntarenas to Paquera, which is a scenic journey in itself. The quickest way is to get cheap flights from San Jose to Tambor on either Sansa or Nature Air, and then arrange a taxi for the final 45 minute ride. (Remember these airlines don't take boards over 7 feet) From Paquera, drive about 20 miles to Cobano, where you’ll follow signs for seven miles to Mal Pais and Santa Teresa.
For busses, there is one that leaves the Coca Cola Bus Terminal in San Jose at 6:00 a.m. and arrives in Mal Pais by 2 p.m. There is also one bus that leaves at 6:00 a.m. from Mal Pais to arrive in San Jose by 2 p.m.
Here is the ferry timetable (effective 1/1/10 to 3/25/10)
from Puntarenas
from Paquera
5:00 a.m.
TB 1
6:00 a.m.
TB 2
9:00 a.m.
TB 2
9:00 a.m.
TB 1
11:00 a.m.
TB 1
11:00 a.m.
TB 2
1:00 p.m.
TB 2
1:00 p.m.
TB 1
3:00 p.m.
TB 1
3:00 p.m.
TB 2
5:00 p.m.
TB 2
5:00 p.m.
TB 1
9:00 p.m.
TB 2
7:00 p.m.
TB 2
Get there at least an hour before the ferry leaves to ensure a place. TB 1 fits about 40 cars, TB 2 fits about 160 cars. When you get there, park in line. Then a guy comes around to each car and gives you a card. You use that card and go to the ticket counter to buy your ticket
(~$11 for car and $1.50 pp)
